|
Window
and door frames
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The most important design issue to consider in making window and door frames for load- bearing, strawbale walls is the most effective method of absorbing the total loads, (dead and live), from the roof structure to the foundations. The more window and door openings there are then the more critical the design of these frames becomes. In other words, the frames themselves will need to be structural and be able to absorb the loads generated. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| We would recommend that you again err on the conservative side, and make frames that will be strong and easy to make. By a rule of thumb use 6 x 2 where 4 x 2 would suffice, also 18 mm ply rather than 12 mm ply. Once you have determined the sizes of your window and door openings you simply make the box. The width of the frames can be 300 mm, but we prefer 450 mm the width of the bale. You will also be able to "shape" these openings with the render and create some great finishes. If you use 300 mm wide ply then you will need to centre the frame and render up and over the sides, top and bottom. In load-bearing walls it is important to keep windows and doors at least 1.2 metres from any corners to maintain the structural integrity of the building. Where a lot of glass is required, i.e. passive solar design (Northern Walls), then a hybrid system will be needed. It is also a good idea to have the windows and doors set to the inside of the frames, this allows a good use of the sun in winter and keeps out the sun in summer (heard that somewhere before). However, some people like the idea of wide window sills which can be used as seats on the inside. Just make sure that your eaves are the right distance from the building this assists greatly in waterproofing and passive solar heating and cooling. |
A low-cost, railway-sleeper window frame |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||